Umehluko Phakathi kwe-Retinol, Retin-A, nama-Retinoids
Izithako zokunakekela isikhumba zingadideka, ikakhulu uma zinegama elifanayo elizwakalayo: Retinol, Retin-A , retinoids. Uyini umehluko?
Nakuba zonke lezi zithako zihlobene, zinemifino emikhulu. Ukufunda ukuhlukanisa phakathi kwazo zonke kuzokusiza ukuthi ukhethe okuzoba ngcono kakhulu esikhumbeni sakho.
Yiziphi Retinoids?
I-retinoid yigama elisetshenziselwa ukuchaza iqembu lama-compounds asuka ku-vitamin A.
Ama-retinoids yizintombi zezwe lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ngoba zenza okuningi isikhumba.
Uma usebenzisa i-retinoids njalo, ithoni yakho yesikhumba iyoba yinkimbinkimbi, ukuthungwa kwesikhumba kushelele, futhi ukukhanya kwakho konke kuzocaca. Ama-retinoids angakhuphula ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen, kanti ubufakazi obonisa ukuthi bangandisa ukwanda kwe-elastin. Njengoba ungacabanga, lokhu kwenza i-retinoids iphikisana nabasebenza kahle futhi isetshenziselwa ukuvimbela nokuguqula izimpawu zokuguga.
Ama-retinoids nawo avinisekisa amazinga okubuyiswa kwamangqamuzana , futhi angasiza ukuvulela ama-pores. Ngakho-ke ama-retinoids asetshenziselwa ukwelapha izigaxa.
I-Retinol ne-Retin-A kokubili i-retinoids. Zombili zivela ku-vitamin A. Lokhu kuchaza ukuthi kungani banegama elifanayo elizwakalayo. Cabanga ngakho ngale ndlela: I-Retinol ne-Retin-A yizinhlobo zama -retinoids, njengoba nje i-apple ne-lime eyinhloko yizinhlobo zama -pie.
Lezi akuzona kuphela ama-retinoid e-topical atholakalayo, noma kunjalo. I-Retin-A Micro (i-tretinoin) , i-Renova (tretinoin), i-Tazorac (i-tazarotene) yonke i-retinoids.
I-Differin, imithi yokwelapha kuphela yama-acne manje etholakalayo phezu kwe-counter, ivame ukuxhunyelwa eqenjini le-retinoid. Nakuba isithako esisebenzayo ku- Differin (i-adaptalene) akuyona i-retinoid ngokweqile, isebenza ngokuyinhloko ngendlela efanayo. Ngakho-ke, ungabona futhi i-Differin efakwe ohlwini lwe-retinoid ye-topical noma i-retinoid-like comound.
Kuyini i-Retinol?
Ngakho manje uyazi ukuthi i-retinol ne-Retin-A yizo zombili izinhlobo ze-retinoids. Kodwa ngabe umehluko phakathi kokubili?
I-Retinol ifomu lemvelo le-vitamin A. Litholakala ezinhlobonhlobo eziningi zokwelashwa kwesikhumba nemikhiqizo yobuhle. Kungasiza ukwenza isikhumba sakho sibonakale siqondile, futhi uzizwe ungcono futhi ubushelelezi. Kungasiza futhi ukuvimbela imigqa emihle nemibimbi.
I-Retinol ngokwayo ayithinti ngempela isikhumba ngokuqondile. Ama-enzyme ngaphakathi kwesikhumba kuqala kumele aguqule i-retinol ibe i-retinoic acid. Kuyinto kuphela lapho iguqulwa ekubeni i-retinoic acid ukuthi iphumelele.
Lokhu akuyona inqubo yesikhashana, noma kunjalo. Inqubo yokuguqula ingathatha isikhathi eside. Futhi, ukuthi inani eliningi le-retinol empeleni liguqulwa libe yi-retinoic acid lixhomeke ezintweni eziningi, kufaka phakathi inani le-retinol emkhiqizo ukuqala, futhi uma lihlehlisiwe (ngokuyisisekelo ukuthi umkhiqizo wakho ungakanani noma ukuthi ivuliwe isikhathi eside kangakanani). Futhi, ngokuthakazelisayo, abanye abantu baphendulela i-retinol ibe yi-retinoic acid ngokushesha kunabanye.
Ngenxa yazo zonke lezi zinto, i-retinol isisebenzi esincane. Ngeke ubone okuningi endleleni yemiphumela yezinyanga eziyisithupha noma ngaphezulu. Imiphumela yenzeke, ngakho-ke uma isikhathi eside usisebenzisa imiphumela engcono ozoyibona. Ngisho noma kunjalo, khumbula ukuthi ngenkathi i-retinol iyinhlanganisela enhle esimisweni sakho sokunakekelwa kwesikhumba sokuguga, akusona ukwelashwa okuyisimangaliso.
Cishe ngeke ubone ushintsho olukhulu.
Noma kunjalo, imikhiqizo ye-retinol ingathuthukisa isikhumba ngandlela-thile. Futhi izindaba ezinhle imikhiqizo ye-retinol ngokuvamile ibumnene.
I-Retinol ingabangela nemiphumela emibi futhi, kodwa ngokuvamile ayinandaba kakhulu ne-Retin-A. Ungase uqaphele isikhumba sakho sithola kancane ngemuva kokusebenzisa umkhiqizo we-retinol. Ukuncipha noma ukumelela okuncane kuyinto evamile, kepha ngokuvamile kunomusa kakhulu. Abantu abaningi bangasebenzisa i-retinol ngaphandle kokukhululeka kodwa uma isikhumba sakho sibonakala sithukuthele kufanele uyeke ukusebenzisa umkhiqizo.
Yini i-Retin-A?
I-Retin-A empeleni iyigama lomkhiqizo we-tretinoin yemithi. I-Retin-A ifomu le-vitamin A.
Ngokungafani ne-retinol, i-Retin-A yimithi yokwelapha kuphela. Ijwayele ukusetshenziselwa ukwelapha izinsimbi zombili ezivuthayo kanye nokuphulwa komunye . I-retin-A esebenzayo isithako, i-tretinoin, isetshenziselwa ukuphatha imigqa emihle kanye nemibimbi, ikhanyisa ubuciko, futhi ifinyelele ukuguqulwa kwamanzi ( amamaki amnyama ashiywe ama-acne breakdown noma ukulimala kwelanga).
I-Tretinoin nayo yaziwa nangokuthi i-retinoic acid, ngakho-ke i-Retin-A iyathinta ngqo isikhumba. Ngenxa yokuthi akudingeki ulinde isikhumba ukuguqula, i-Retin-A isebenza ngokushesha futhi inamandla kunemikhiqizo ye-retinol. Eqinisweni, ungabona ukuthuthukiswa kwesikhumba emasontweni ayisithupha ukuya kweziyisishiyagalombili isikhathi.
Kodwa amandla angeziwe afika enecala. Kungenzeka ukuthi ubona imiphumela emibi njengomile , ubomvu, ukuvutha, ukucubungula nokukhwabanisa, ngenkathi usebenzisa i-Retin-A uma kuqhathaniswa nemikhiqizo ye-retinol.
Ingabe i-Retinol izonikeza imiphumela efanayo njenge-Retin-A?
Cha. Nakuba basebenza ngezindlela ezifanayo, i-retinol ayifani ne-Retin-A. Nakuba abanye bangabiza i-retinol inguqulo ephezulu ye-Retin-A, ayikwazi ukushintshaniswa.
Ngokuyisisekelo, i-retinol ne-Retin-A yenza into efanayo. Kodwa i-retinol ibuthakathaka kakhulu kune-Retin-A ngoba kufanele kuqala iguqulwe ibe i-retinoic acid ukuze isetshenziswe yisikhumba. I-Retin-A i-retinoic acid, ngakho ingasetshenziswa ngokuqondile ngesikhumba ngokushesha nje uma isetshenziswa.
Njengalokhu, i-Retin-A inamandla kakhulu kune-retinol. Ngisho namandla aphansi kunazo zonke i-Retin-A inamandla kunomkhiqizo ophezulu kakhulu we-retinol.
Ngezinye izikhathi i-Retinol ingeziwe emithini ye-acne ye-acne, kodwa akuyona imithi yokwelapha ngokwayo. Isetshenziswe kaningi njenge-anti-ager.
I-Retinol vs. Retin-A: Indlela Yokukhetha Umkhiqizo Olungile Ngesikhumba Sakho
Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ukhetha i-retinol noma u-Retin-A kuncike ekutheni imigomo yakho yokuphela iyini. Kukhona izinzuzo kanye nokuphazamiseka kwalowo nalowo.
Uma ubheke ukunikeza isikhumba sakho ukuthuthukisa okuncane, ugweme ezinye izibonakaliso zokuguga, futhi awunayo izinkinga ezinkulu ezidinga ukubhekana nazo, i-retinol iyona enhle kakhulu. Bheka i-retinol ekunakekelweni kwekhefu njengama-moisturizers, ama-cream, ama-eye and treatments.
Kunezinhlobo ezahlukene ze-retinol. Ngakho-ke ngenkathi ubheka uhlu lwezithako kulesi sikhilimu sokuguga, cishe ngeke ubone i- retinol. Kunalokho, uzobona uhlu lwama-retinol asetshenziswe kulowo mkhiqizo: i-retinal, i-retinyl palmitate, i-retinyl acetate, i-retinyl linoleate. Okuphakanyisiwe ohlwini lwezithako, i-retinol eyengeziwe ukuthi umkhiqizo unayo. Uma kubhalwe ohlwini lokufa ekugcineni, akuqukethe i-retinol eningi futhi mhlawumbe ngeke iphumelele kakhulu.
Mayelana nokukhathazeka okunjengama-acne, ama-blackheads, izinkinga ze-pigmentation kanye nemigqa ejulile nemibimbi, i-Retin-A izokunika ibanga elingaphezulu lebhokisi lakho. Yebo, lokhu kusho ukuya kudermatologist ukuze uthole imithi, kodwa isikhathi eside, uzothola imiphumela emangalisayo kakhulu nge-retinoid yesigqila kunokuba uzokwenza nge-over-the-counter version.
Kodwa akudingeki ukuba kube / noma isinqumo. I-Retinol ingaba isinyathelo sokuqala esihle ngaphambi kokuthuthela phambili, futhi okungenzeka uyathukuthelisa, Retin-A. Isikhumba sakho kancane kancane sijwayele ama-retinoids njengoba usebenzisa. Lokhu akusho ukuthi akusebenzi kahle ngokuhamba kwesikhathi; bayakwenza. Uzobona nje umphumela wecala njengomile futhi ukucubungula kube yisikhathi esincane nangaphansi kwesikhathi. Ukuqala nge-over-the-counter retinoid umkhiqizo kungasiza ukwandisa isikhumba sakho kuma-retinoids angokwezihloko bese unciphisa imiphumela emibi uma futhi ekugcineni uqhuma ku-Retin-A kadokotela.
Izwi elivela
Noma ngabe i-retinoid oyisebenzisayo, i- sunscreen iyadingeka . Ama-retinoids angenza isikhumba sakho sithandeke kakhulu ekushiseni kwelanga, ngenxa yamangqamuzana omzimba esikhumba esikhwameni sakho. Ngisho noma ungahlali, ukulimala kwelanga kusengenzeka. Ukuze uvikele isikhumba sakho, sebenzisa i-retinoid yakho ebusuku futhi usebenzise isikrini selanga nge-SPF engama-30 noma ngaphezulu njalo ekuseni.
Ungase futhi ufake kancane kancane isikhumba sakho kumuthi wakho omusha we-retinoid (lo mqondo omuhle kakhulu uma unesikhumba esibucayi). Zama ukusebenzisa umkhiqizo wakho we-retinol izikhathi ezimbili noma ezintathu ngesonto ekuqaleni. Lokhu kuzovumela isikhumba sakho ukuba sisetshenziselwe i-retinol futhi sikwenze kancane ukuthi uzohlakulela ukucasuka. Kancane kancane usebenze kuze kube yilapho ungasebenzisa umkhiqizo wakho nsuku zonke ngaphandle kokuthi isikhumba sakho sibhikishe.
I-Retinoids ingaba yinto ewusizo ekunakekeleni isimiso sakho sokunakekela isikhumba. Uma udinga usizo ukuthola umkhiqizo we-retinoid, udokotela noma udokotela wakho angakusiza ukhethe eyodwa.
> Imithombo:
> McDaniel DH, Mazur C, Wortzman MS, Nelson DB. "Ukusebenza nokubekezela kwe-Cream Retinoid Cream ka-1.0% i-Retinol Cream noma i-0.025% i-Tretinoin Cream kwizihloko ezinemibala emihle kakhulu." I-Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. I-2017 Dec; 16 (4): 542-548.
> I-Nohynek GJ. "I-Commentary ngokuphepha kwe-Vitamin A e-Topical in Cosmetics." I-Toxicology Yokulawula Ukulawula Nezokwelapha. 2017 Oct; 89: 302-304.
> Zaenglein AL, uPathy AL, Schlosser BJ, Alikhan A, Baldwin HE, et. al. "Imihlahlandlela Yokunakekela Ukuphathwa Kwe-Acne Vulgaris." Umagazini we-American Academy of Dermatology. 2016; 74 (5): 945-73.