Izizathu zokuzama ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba sokuguga
Njengoba inani elikhulayo locwaningo libheke kulokho okubangela imibimbi nemiphumela yokufaka isithombe , ukusetshenziswa kwe-beta hydroxy acid kuye kwanda kakhulu ekuthandeni. Kunezinhlobo ezimbili zama-hydroxy acid: i-alpha ne-beta. I-Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) yi-exfoliants etholakala ezitshalweni zezithelo nobisi njenge- glycolic acid , ekhishwa ushukela ne-lactic acid (ekhishwa ubisi).
Kukhona i-beta eyodwa ye-hydroxy acid (i-BHA) evame ukusetshenziswa emikhiqizo yokunakekela isikhumba, futhi yi-asidi salicylic, etholakala ku-aspirin.
Indlela i-Beta Hydroxy Acid isebenza ngayo
I-Beta i-hydroxy acid isebenza ngokuyinhloko njenge-exfoliant. Kubangela ukuthi amangqamuzana e- epidermis (ungqimba lwangaphandle lwesikhumba) abe "anglued," avumela amangqamuzana esikhumba afile ukuba ahlulwe, okwenza kube lula ukubuyisela isikhumba esisha. I-beta i-hydroxy acid ibikwa ukuthi ithuthukise ukuchofoza, ukugqwala, nokugqamuka kwesibhakabhaka sesikhumba esiphezulu ngemva kwezinyanga eziyisithupha zokusebenza kwansuku zonke. I-Beta i-hydroxy acid etholakala kwimikhiqizo ye-skincare isebenza kangcono ekuhlungeni kwamaphesenti angu-1 kuya ku-2 amaphesenti naku-pH ka-3 kuya ku-4.
Umehluko Phakathi kwe-Alpha ne-Beta Hydroxy Acids
Umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwe-alpha hydroxy acids kanye ne-beta hydroxy acid yi-lipid (i-oli) yayo. I-Alpha hydroxy acids ayincibilika kwamanzi kuphela, kuyilapho i-beta hydroxy acid i-lipid-soluble, okusho ukuthi iyoqothula ngamafutha.
Lokhu kusho ukuthi i-beta hydroxy acid ikwazi ukungena ngaphakathi kwe-pore, equkethe i-sebum yamafutha futhi ihlise ama cell cell efile akha ngaphakathi kwe-pore. Ngenxa yalokhu umehluko ezindaweni, i-beta hydroxy acid isetshenziselwa kangcono isikhumba samafutha ngamnyama namhlophe . I-Alpha hydroxy acids isetshenziswe kangcono esikhunjeni esinyanyisiwe, esikhonswe ilanga lapho ukuphumula akuyona inkinga.
Ukuzwela kwelanga
Ukusetshenziswa kwe-beta hydroxy acid kungakwandisa ukuzwela kwelanga ngamaphesenti angu-50, kubangele ukukhathazeka okuthakazelisayo. Kubonakala sengathi i-beta hydroxy acid ingakwazi ukuguqula omunye umonakalo obangelwa ukufaka izithombe, kodwa ngesikhathi esifanayo, kwenza isikhumba sithinteke kakhulu ukufaka isithombe. Kusobala ukuthi noma ubani osebenzisa i-beta hydroxy acid kumele asebenzise isiqabunga esihle selanga esine- UVA nokuvikelwa kwe- UVB .
Qaphela i-Skin Irritation
I-beta i-hydroxy acid ibonakala ingacasuli kakhulu kune-alpha hydroxy acid, noma ingena kancane phakathi kwe-pore. Lokhu kwenzeka ngoba i-asidi salicylic itholakala ku-acetylsalicylic acid noma i-aspirin. I-aspirin inamakhemikhali aphikisayo, futhi i- salicylic acid igcina eziningi zalezi zakhiwo eziphikisayo. Naphezu kwalokhu, i-beta hydroxy acid ingabangela ukucasula isikhumba. Izimpawu zokucasuka zihlanganisa ubomvu, ukuvutha, ukubheka, ubuhlungu, nokukhishwa okungenzeka. Abantu abanesikhumba esimnyama basengozini enkulu yokushintsha izinguquko ze-pigment nge-beta hydroxy acid.
Ukusebenzisa i-Beta Hydroxy Acid
I-Beta i-hydroxy acid itholakala kumikhiqizo ehlukahlukene yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kubandakanya ama- moisturizers , abahlanza, ukhilimu weso, isikrini selanga, nezisekelo. Kungcono ukhethe umkhiqizo owodwa oqukethe ukwakheka kahle kwe-beta hydroxy acid ukuze usebenzise njenge-exfoliant yakho, bese ukhetha ezinye imikhiqizo yokunakekela isikhumba noma izimonyo ezingenayo i-hydroxy acids ukunciphisa amathuba okucasula isikhumba.
Ukusebenzisa i-beta hydroxy acid esisekelweni somswakama kungase kube ngcono. Abacwengisi abaqukethe i-beta hydroxy acid abaphumelelanga kakhulu ngoba i-beta hydroxy acid kumele ifakwe esikhumbeni ukuze isebenze. Abahlanza bahlanza ngaphambi kokuba lokhu kukhishwa kwenzeke.
Ayikho imikhiqizo ephumelelayo ehlanganisa i-beta hydroxy acid ne- sunscreen ngoba i-sunscreen ayizinzile kwi-pH edingekayo ukwenza i-beta hydroxy acid isebenze. I-sunscreen kufanele isetshenziswe ngokukhululekile uma usebenzisa umkhiqizo we-beta hydroxy acid. I-sunscreen kufanele ibe ne- SPF okungenani engu-15 yokuvikelwa kwe-UVB (cishe 30 noma ngaphezulu) futhi iqukethe i-avobenzone, i-titanium dioxide, noma i-zinc oxide yokuvikelwa kwe-UVA.
I-Beta i-hydroxy acid isebenza kangcono ekuhlungeni kwamaphesenti angu-1 kuya kwezingu-2 nakwi-pH ka-3 kuya ku-4. Ngeshwa, abakhiqizi bezimonyo akudingeki ukuba bafake ulwazi lwe-pH kulelebula. Indlela kuphela yokwazi i-pH yomkhiqizo ukuyihlola nge-pH strip.
Ngokungafani ne-alpha hydroxy acid, okumele ibhalwe ohlwini lwezithako ezintathu eziphezulu ukukhombisa ukuhlushwa okufanele, i-beta hydroxy acid ingafakwa ohlwini phakathi noma ngisho nangaphansi kwesigaba sokwabelana ngoba sisebenza kahle ezindaweni eziphansi.
> Umthombo:
> I-Beta Hydroxy Acids. Ukuphathwa kwe-US nokuDrug. https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIzici / Izithako/ucm107943.htm.