Ingabe i-Alpha Hydroxy Acid Skin Peel inganciphisa ama-wrinkle?
Ngokucwaninga okwandayo kulokho okubangela imibimbi nemiphumela ye-photoaging , i-alpha hydroxy acids yande kakhulu ekuthandeni.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids isetshenziselwe izinkulungwane zeminyaka njengomkhiqizo ovuselela isikhumba. I-Cleopatra ibikwa ukuthi igeze ubisi olumuncu (i-lactic acid) ukuze ithuthukise ubude bayo. Manje i-hydroxy acid iyinhlanganisela evamile kwimikhiqizo eminingi yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kuhlanganise nama- moisturizers , abahlanza, i-toners, namaski.
Sibutsetelo kanye nezinhlobo ze-Alpha Hydroxy Acids
I-Alpha hydroxy acids itholakala ekushukela izithelo nobisi. I-alpha hydroxy acid esebenzisa kakhulu i- glycolic acid ne-lactic acid ngoba inamandla okhethekile ukungena esikhumbeni. Futhi banedatha yesayensi kakhulu ekusebenzeni kwabo nemiphumela emibi. Okulandelayo yizinhlobo ezinhlanu ezinkulu zama-alpha hydroxy acids ezitholakala kwimikhiqizo ye-skincare nemithombo yawo:
- I-Glycolic acid: ushukela
- I-lactic acid: ubisi
- I-malic acid : ama-apula nama-pears
- Citric acid: ama-orang kanye nama-lemons
- I-tartaric acid: amagilebhisi
Yeka ukuthi i-Alpha Hydroxy Acids isebenza kanjani esikhumbeni
I-Alpha hydroxy acids isebenza ngokuyinhloko njenge- exfoliant . Bangela ukuthi amangqamuzana e- epidermis (ungqimba ophezulu wesikhumba) abe "anglued" avumela amangqamuzana esikhumba efile ukuba ahlukane, enze indawo yokubuyisela isikhumba esisha. I-Alpha hydroxy acids ingase ivuse ngisho nokukhiqizwa kwe-collagen ne-elastin.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids ibikwa ukuthi ithuthukise ukugwinya, ukugubha nokugqama kwesigqoko sesikhumba ngemuva kokusebenza kwezinsuku zonke.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids etholakala kwimikhiqizo ye-skincare isebenza kangcono ekuhlungeni kwamaphesenti angu-5 kuya kwangu-8 nakwi-pH ka-3 ukuya ku-4.
Imiphumela emibi ye-Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Imiphumela emibili emikhulu ye-alpha hydroxy acids yukucasuka nokuzwela kwelanga. Izimpawu zokucasuka zihlanganisa ubomvu, ukushisa, ukucheka, ukuhlunguphaza nokukhishwa okungenzeka.
Abantu abanezikhumba ezinemibala emnyama bangengozi enkulu yokushintsha izinguquko ze-pigment nge-alpha hydroxy acids. Ukusetshenziswa kwe-alpha hydroxy acids kungandisa ukwanda kwelanga ngamaphesenti angu-50, kubangele ukukhathazeka okuthakazelisayo.
Kubonakala sengathi i-alpha hydroxy acids ingakwazi ukuguqula omunye umonakalo obangelwa ukufaka izithombe, kodwa ngesikhathi esifanayo, benza isikhumba sithinteke kakhulu ukufaka isithombe. Kusobala ukuthi noma ubani osebenzisa i-alpha hydroxy acids kumele asebenzise i-sunscreen enhle equkethe ukuvikelwa kwe- UVA ne- UVB . Qaphela ukuthi eziningi ze-sunscreen azivikeli emisebeni ye-UVA, imisebe ebaluleke kakhulu ekugugeni isikhumba.
Izinkombandlela ze-FDA
Ngenxa yokukhathazeka ngemiphumela emibi ye-alpha hydroxy acids, i-FDA ngo-1997 yamemezela ukuthi i-alpha hydroxy acids iphephile ukusetshenziswa kwabathengi ngalezi ziqondiso:
- Ukuhlushwa kwe-AHA kungamaphesenti angu-10 noma ngaphansi
- Umkhiqizo wokugcina une-pH ye-3.5 noma ngaphezulu
- Umkhiqizo wokugcina kumele ube ne-sunscreen ephumelelayo ekubunjweni noma uxwayise abantu ukuthi basebenzise imikhiqizo yelanga
Ama-Peels Amakhemikhali
I-Alpha hydroxy acids ezindaweni ezihlukahlukene isetshenziselwa amakhemikhali amakhemikhali. Lezi zinhlayiya zamakhemikhali zinika imiphumela efana nemigqa emihle ye- microdermabrasion futhi inika isikhumba ukubukeka okubukeka kahle kwesicelo esisodwa kuya kwezintathu.
Lezi zelashwa kumele ziphindwe njalo njalo ezinyangeni ezintathu kuya kweziyisithupha ukugcina lesi sikhumba sibukeka. Odokotela bangasebenzisa imikhiqizo ye-alpha hydroxy acid enokuhlushwa kwamaphesenti angu-50 kuya kwangu-70. I-Alpha hydroxy chemical peel treatments nayo isula imibimbi emihle futhi isuse izibazi zomhlaba, kodwa imiphumela ihlala isikhathi eside-kuze kube yiminyaka emibili kuya kwemihlanu.
Ukuphakama kwe-alpha hydroxy acid okusetshenziselwa ukukhishwa kwamakhemikhali, ukucasuka kakhudlwana kwenzeka kakhudlwana. Emakhulwini angu-50 kuya kwangu-70 okuhlushwa, umuntu angalindela ukuthi abe nokubomvu okukhulu, ukukhwabanisa nokukhanda isikhumba esingapheli amasonto angu-1 kuya kwangu-4.
I-Alpha ne-Beta Hydroxy Acids
Kukhona i- beta eyodwa ye-hydroxy acid kuphela : i- salicylic acid .
Umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwe-alpha hydroxy acids kanye ne-beta hydroxy acid yi-lipid (i-oli) yayo. I-Alpha hydroxy acids yincithakalo yamanzi kuphela, kuyilapho i-beta hydroxy acid i-lipid (i-oli) i-soluble. Lokhu kusho ukuthi i-beta hydroxy acid ikwazi ukungena ngaphakathi kwe-pore, equkethe i-sebum futhi ixhumane namaseli esikhumba efile akhayo ngaphakathi kwe-pore.
Ngenxa yalokhu umehluko ezindaweni, i-beta hydroxy acid isetshenziswe kangcono kunesikhumba samafutha ngamnyama namhlophe . I-Alpha hydroxy acids isetshenziswe kangcono esikhunjeni esinyanyisiwe, esikhonswe ilanga lapho ukuphumula akuyona inkinga.
Ukukhetha i-Alpha Hydroxy Acid Product
I-Alpha hydroxy acids itholakala ezinhlobonhlobo zemikhiqizo ye-skincare, kuhlanganise nama-moisturizers, abahlanza, ukhilimu weso, isikrini selanga, nezisekelo. Noma kunjalo, kungcono ukhethe umkhiqizo owodwa oqukethe ukwakheka kahle kwe-alpha hydroxy acid ukuze usebenzise njenge-exfoliant yakho, bese ukhetha ezinye imikhiqizo yokunakekela isikhumba noma izimonyo ezingenalo i-alpha hydroxy acids ukunciphisa amathuba okucasula isikhumba.
Ukusebenzisa i-alpha hydroxy acid engxenyeni ye-moisturizer kungase kube inhlanganisela engcono kakhulu yemikhiqizo. Abacwengisi abaqukethe i-alpha hydroxy acids ayiphumeli kakhulu ngoba i-alpha hydroxy acid kumele ifakwe esikhumbeni ukuze isebenze. Abahlanza bahlanza ngaphambi kokuba lokhu kukhishwa kwenzeke.
I-sunscreen kufanele isetshenziswe ngokukhululekile uma usebenzisa umkhiqizo we-alpha hydroxy acid. I-sunscreen kufanele ibe ne- SPF okungenani engu-15 yokuvikelwa kwe-UVB futhi iqukethe i-avobenzone, i-titanium dioxide noma i-zinc oxide yokuvikelwa kwe-UVA.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids isebenza kangcono ekuhlungeni kwamaphesenti angu-5 kuya kwangu-8 nakwi-pH ka-3 kuya ku-4. Ngeshwa, abakhiqizi bezimonyo akudingeki ukuba banikeze ulwazi lokuhlushwa kuleli ilebuli. Njengomthetho jikelele wesithupha, ukuba ne-alpha hydroxy acid efakwe njengesithako sesibili noma sesithathu kulolu hlu kwenza kube lula ukuthi iqukethe ukuhlushwa okufanele. Indlela kuphela yokukwazi ngokuqinisekile ukuthi i-pH yomkhiqizo ukuhlola nge-pH strip.
Ngezansi ku-Alpha Hydroxy Acids ye-Wrinkling
I-Alpha hydroxy acids njengengxenye yama-moisturizers, ama-creams, noma eminye imikhiqizo yokunakekela isikhumba ingase iguqule omunye umonakalo obangelwa ukufaka isithombe. Ngendlela yokwelapha yamakhemikhali, ikakhulukazi ezindaweni eziphakeme emahhovisi odokotela, lezi zikhali zingathuthukisa ukubonakala kwemibimbi emihle kanye nezibazi iminyaka embalwa. I-Alpha hydroxy acids ijwayele ukusebenza kangcono kubantu abanesikhumba esinyanyekile, esonakele, kanti i-beta hydroxy acids ingase ibe yindlela engcono kulabo abanesikhumba esikhuthele.
Naphezu kokukwazi kwabo ukuthuthukisa ukubonakala kwekhanda elonakaliswe ilanga, i-alpha hydroxy acids ingathuthukisa ukuzwela kwelanga futhi yandisa ingozi yomonakalo wesikhumba ngokushisa kwelanga. Ukugqoka isikrini esilangazwe kahle esibandakanya ukufakwa kokubili kwemisindo ye-UVA ne-UVB kubalulekile uma ukhetha ukusebenzisa le mikhiqizo.
> Imithombo:
> Tran, D., Townley, J., Barnes, T., noK. Greive. I-Antiaging Skin Care System Ephethe i-Alpha Hydroxy Acids namavithamini Ithuthukisa Izingxenye ze-Biomechanical Facial Skin. I-Dermatology yezokwelapha, yezocwilisa kanye neyokuphenya . 2014. 8: 9-17.
> U-Richard PJB, uHamish JA Hunter, noMargaret W. Mann. Izidakamizwa zemithi. I-Chichester (West Sussex): UJohn Wiley & Sons Inc., 2015. Phrinta.