Ziyini Izinto Zokuziqhenya? Izinzuzo, Ukuphepha, Nokuzikhethela Kanjani
I-cosmeceuticals yiklasi lemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba equkethe izithako ezisebenzayo ezikwazi ukushintsha izinguquko ze-physiologic esikhumbeni. Kulula nje, imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ye-cosmeceutical hhayi nje yenza isikhumba sakho sibonakale singcono okwesikhashana, singakwazi ukudala izinguquko esikhumbeni sakho.
Ama-Cosmeceuticals Hamba Umgwaqo Phakathi Kwezimonyo Nezidakamizwa
Igama elithi "cosmeceutical" lakhiwa u-Albert Kligman, MD, emuva kweminyaka yama-1980 njengendlela yokuchaza umkhiqizo wokunakekela isikhumba owenza okungaphezu kwezithokozi kodwa akuyona imithi.
Kuyinto ingxube yamazwi izimonyo kanye nezidakamizwa.
Ama-Cosmeceuticals angaphezu kwezimonyo. I-Cosmetics, izinto ezifana nokuhlanza ebusweni nokwenza izimonyo, zingahlanza isikhumba sakho noma zibukeke zihle, kodwa aziguquli ngendlela isikhumba esiziphatha ngayo.
Ngakolunye uhlangothi, i-Cosmeceuticals, iqukethe izithako ezisebenzayo ezishintsha isakhiwo somzimba kanye nokusebenza kwesikhumba. Futhi bangase babe nesayensi yangempela yokusekela lezi zimangalo.
Nakuba ngezinye izikhathi kuthiwa "ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba" ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ama-cosmeceuticals akuzona izidakamizwa. Izidakamizwa zisetshenziselwa ukwelapha, ukwelapha, noma ukuphatha isimo sezokwelapha, futhi zihlolwe ukuhlolwa okunamandla ngaphambi kokushaya imakethe. Ezinye imikhiqizo engaphezu kwamakhompiyutha, njengezimpahla ze- acne kanye nama-shampoos ahamba phambili angabonakala njengezimonyo kodwa empeleni, izidakamizwa ngoba ziphatha inkinga.
I-Cosmeceuticals ayikwazi ukuphatha izinkinga zesikhumba. Zisetshenziselwa izinhloso zobuhle futhi ziyindlela engavamile yokuthuthukisa ukubonakala kwesikhumba.
Ungabathenga nge-counter, futhi awudingi imithi.
Awekho Amazinga Wokusetha WeMikhiqizo Yezochungechunge
Nakuba kuvumelana ngokujwayelekile phakathi kwabahlengikazi bokunakekelwa kwesikhumba mayelana nokuthi yini eyenza i-cosmeceutical, ayikho imikhombandlela esethiwe futhi ayikho amazinga ahlukanisa le mikhiqizo.
Ayikho inhlangano ebusayo eqondisa izidakamizwa ngokuqondile. Ngakho, empeleni igama elithi cosmeceutical lingaphezulu kwesikhathi sokumaketha kunoklasi langempela lomkhiqizo wokunakekelwa kwesikhumba.
Lapha yilapho ithola isikhala esincane. Imikhiqizo ye-Cosmeceutical ayidingi ukuhlolwa ngokuvivinya kakhulu kunezimonyo zendabuko. Ama-Cosmeceuticals awagcini emazingeni aphezulu. Akudingeki ngisho nokufakazela ukuthi empeleni benza lokho abakushoyo.
Empeleni, i-US Food and Drug Administration ayiqapheli ngisho negama elithi "cosmeceutical." Emahlweni e-FDA, ama-cosmeceuticals noma izidakamizwa noma izidakamizwa ze-OTC, kuye ngokuthi izimangalo umkhiqizo wenza.
Izidakamizwa zingasho ukuthi "ziphatha" inkinga, imibimbi njengesibonelo. Isimonyo singasho ukuthi sithuthukisa, sinciphisa, noma sinciphisa imibimbi, kodwa asikwazi ukuthi siyayiphatha. Ngoba kuyinkambinkimbi eqondile yokuthola izidakamizwa ezivunyiwe, ngisho ne-OTC eyodwa, izinkampani eziningi zinquma ukuthengisa imikhiqizo yabo yezimonyozi njengezimonyo. Bangakwazi ukuthola umkhiqizo emakethe ngokushesha, futhi okungenani kancane kakhulu, ngokwenza njalo. Izimangalo ze-Cosmeceutical zishiywe ngokungaqondakali, ukugcina ukukhangiswa kwazo ngaphakathi kweziqondiso zomthetho.
Izinzuzo nezingozi zokusebenzisa ama-Cosmeceuticals
Nakuba bengewona izidakamizwa, izidakamizwa zinikeza i-niche emakethe yobuhle namuhla.
Zisetshenziselwa ukuthuthukisa izinkinga zezimonyo njenge- hyperpigmentation , cellulite, ama-pores amakhulu, nama-acne. Kodwa iningi lemikhiqizo ye-cosmeceutical, liwukulwa nokuguga-imibimbi, ukulahleka kwezinga elithile kanye nezwi, nokulimala kwelanga.
Inzuzo: Uthola ukunakekelwa kakhudlwana kakhudlwana, phezu kwekhasi. Ukuqaphela izinkinga ze-esthétique esikhumbeni sakho, kodwa akusibi kakhulu ukudinga imithi yokwelapha? Ama-Cosmeceuticals angasiza ukunciphisa izinkinga zezitho zomzimba ezifana nemigqa emihle, ithoni yesikhumba engalingani, noma ikhanda elimnyama. Bangakusiza ugcine isikhumba sakho esinempilo, ngaphandle kokudinga imithi.
Inzuzo: I-Cosmeceuticals ingasebenza ngokuhambisana nemithi yokwelapha ye-topical. Uma okwamanje usebenzisa imithi kadokotela, izidakamizwa zingathuthukisa ukwelashwa kwakho jikelele.
Isibonelo, imikhiqizo equkethe i-ceramide inganciphisa ukoma okubangelwa ukwenziwa komuthi we-topical tretinoin . Buza i-dermatologist yakho uma kunemikhiqizo ayincoma yona, futhi ungalokothi ungeze umkhiqizo ohlelweni lwakho lwezokwelapha ngaphandle kokwakheka kwe-derm.
Ingozi: Isikhumba sakho siyacasuka. Ngenxa yokuthi imikhiqizo ye-cosmesceutical ingase ibe nezithako eziphezulu zesithako esisebenzayo, kunethuba elingase licasule isikhumba sakho. Lokhu kuyiqiniso ngokukhethekile uma kunezimveliso eziqukethe izithako ezinjenge-alpha hydroxy acids noma i-retinol. Uma isikhumba sakho siba bomvu, sishaya, sishaya, noma sishisa, yeka ukusebenzisa umkhiqizo futhi uvumele udokotela wakho wazi uma kungaphuthuki.
Ingozi: Awutholi lokho okhokhelwe. Ingozi enkulu yokusebenzisa noma yimuphi umkhiqizo we-cosmeceutical umkhiqizo awuhambisani nezimangalo zawo. Kungase kuthembise ukwenza i- X, Y, no- Z , kodwa ekupheleni kosuku uma umkhiqizo ungenalo izithako ezifanele emazingeni afanele ngeke ukwazi ukwenza okuningi ukuthuthukisa isikhumba sakho. Khumbula, ama-cosmeceuticals akudingeki aqinisekise ukuthi asebenza nhlobo. Ngakho-ke, ungaphonsa imali eningi kumkhiqizo ongenzi lutho esikhumbeni sakho.
Ukukhetha Izithako Zokuqhamuka Kwezimonyo Ezingcono kakhulu zeZiphuzo ezinhle kakhulu
Kalula nje ukuthi umkhiqizo ubhala ngokwayo i-cosmeceutical akusho ukuthi kuzoletha izithembiso zayo. Indlela engcono kakhulu yokuqinisekisa ukuthi uthola umkhiqizo we-cosmeceutical ophumelelayo ukukhetha okuqukethe izithako ezisekelwe yisayensi. Kunezithako ezithile eziye zafunda ngokucophelela kunabanye futhi zibonise ukuthi zinezimo zangempela, eziphilayo esikhumbeni.
Izithako ze-Cosmeceutical ngokuyinhloko azikholelwa emfundweni, ngakho-ke okuningi esikwaziyo ngalezi zithako kuvela ocwaningweni olwenziwe imboni ye-cosmeceutical ngokwayo. Noma kunjalo, kukhona ubufakazi obuhle bokuthi izithako ezithile zinezibonelelo ezithile ezibonakalayo esikhumbeni. Ukufuna lezi zithako ku-cosmeceutical kuzosiza ukuqinisekisa ukuthi uthole umkhiqizo ophezulu osebenzayo.
I-Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) iphenywe kahle kakhulu. Ezinye zezinzuzo kakhulu yi- glycolic acid , i-lactic acid, i- malic acid , i-mandelic acid, ne-acent acid. I-Alpha hydroxy acids yandisa ukukhishwa kwesinye isikhumba, ishiya isikhumba sakho sishisa, sishaye, futhi konke-kukhanya kakhulu. Ama-AHA asetshenziselwa ukuqeda ukulimala kwelanga nokuhlushwa okuncane.
I-Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) i-antioxidant enamandla esiza ukuvikela isikhumba ngokumelene nomonakalo omkhulu wamahhala. Ngokuvamile kufakwe ama-cream nama-serum ngoba angathuthukisa imibuthano emnyama. I-ALA ingakwandisa ukuqina kwesikhumba nokunciphisa ama-pores amakhulu .
I-Ceramide iyisakhiwo esibalulekile sokwakhiwa kwesikhumba. Ukuzibiza kwabo udumo kungamandla abo okugcina isikhumba samanzi. Ama-ceramide asiza ukunciphisa ukulahlekelwa kwamanzi we-epidermal (noma i-TEWL). Lena yindlela enhle yokusho ukuthi igcina umswakama esikhumbeni sakho, kunokuyivumela ukuba iqhume. Kubuye kubhebhetheke ukubukeka kwemigqa emihle njengoba kuhluma futhi kugubha isikhumba.
Itiye elihlaza liphakeme kakhulu kuma polyphenols, ikakhulukazi i-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). I-EGCG inciphisa ukuvuvukala, igqugquzela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen, futhi ivikela ukulimala kwe-UV. Lokhu akusho ukuthi itiye elihlaza lifaka indawo engcono ye-sunscreen; akunjalo. Kodwa imikhiqizo ye-suncreen equkethe itiye elihlaza elikuhlaza lingakunika ukuvikeleka okungeziwe emiphumeleni yelanga elesikhumba.
I-Hyaluronic acid ngokwemvelo kwenzeka esikhumbeni futhi iyancipha njengoba ukhula . I-Hyaluronic acid isisiza ukugcina isikhumba senzekile futhi siqine. Njengeziqu ze-ceramide, i-hyaluronic acid ishiya isikhumba sibhekile siphansi futhi sibhebhezela.
I-Niacinamide (i-vitamin B3) ingenye i-antioxidant enhle. I-Niacinamide ikhulisa amazinga okuhambisa amanzi esikhumba. Kuhle futhi ukuhlwa ubusuku bakho ngokunciphisa ubomvu, ukubhula, kanye nokuhlunga umzimba. Lesi sithako sikhanyisa isikhumba futhi sivikela ukubola okuza lapho sikhula.
Ama-peptide amathanga amancane amino acids atholakalayo esikhumbeni. Ama-Peptides angakhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen, ukuthuthukisa ukuqina kwesikhumba nokuthungwa ngenkathi kunciphisa imigqa emihle. Imibuzo ihlala, noma kunjalo, uma i-peptides ingafakwa ngokujulile ngokwanele uma isetshenziswa ngokwezihloko kumkhiqizo wokunakekela isikhumba.
I-Retinol ne-retinaldehyde (ukungaphikiswanga nemithi kadokotela i-Retin-A) isetshenziselwa ukunciphisa ukuguqulwa kwemithi nemigqa emihle. Baphinde bashiye isikhumba bazizwe belula, futhi bangase bavikele ukulwa nokulahleka kwe-collagen. I-retinaldehyde ngokukhethekile iboniswe ukunciphisa imibimbi, ngisho nokusetha okujulile.
I-Soy kucatshangwa ukuthi ivikela ukulwa nokulahleka kwe-collagen nokunciphisa isikhumba okwenzeka lapho ukhula. Okunye ukuhlola kusikisela ukuthi futhi kuvuselela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen.
I-Vitamin C i-antioxidant eyaziwayo engase futhi ivuselele ukudalwa kwe-collagen (ikakhulukazi i-L-ascorbic acid). Kodwa kuphephile kakhulu futhi ulahlekelwa amandla ngokushesha lapho umkhiqizo uvuliwe futhi uvezwe emoyeni. Ukuze uthole imikhiqizo ye-vitamin C uzothola imiphumela emihle kakhulu kulawo maphakheji emapompu okuvula umoya (okuvimbela umoya ukungena ngaphakathi kwebhodlela kumkhiqizo) noma kulawo amakhisolisi angasetshenziswa.
I-Vitamin E ilungele isikhumba esonakele ilanga, futhi ingasiza ekuvikeleni ekudambisweni kwe-elastin. Isebenza kahle uma ihlanganiswe ne-vitamin C. Njenge-vitamin C, noma kunjalo, ingahlala ingaqiniseki futhi ihlaziye ngokushesha.
Kukhona inani elimangalisayo lamazambiso asetshenziselwa ama-cosmeceuticals, futhi okuningi kuqaliswa ngaso sonke isikhathi. Lokhu akulona uhlu oluphelele, kodwa kunalokho okunye okungakusiza ukuthi uqale ngezinye izithako eziyaziwa futhi ezicwaningwa kahle.
Izwi elivela
I-Cosmeceutical eyenziwe kahle ingasiza ukuthuthukisa ithoni, ukuthungwa, nokukhanya kwesikhumba sakho. Kodwa khumbula ukuthi ama-cosmesceuticals namanje nje amikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ngakho-ke kufanele ube yiqiniso ngalokho abangakwenza empeleni. Ngeke zisuse ngokuphelele imibimbi, futhi ngeke ikunikeze imiphumela ngokuhambisana nezinqubo ezimbi kakhulu ezenziwe ehhovisi le-dermatology (njengezokwelashwa kwelaser , amakhemikhali amakhemikhali, noma ama-filler injection.) Kodwa uma usebenzisa imikhiqizo yakho ye-cosmesceutical njalo, ungabona ngcono esikhumbeni sakho.
Ungakhohlwa ngenye yezinyathelo ezibaluleke kakhulu zokunakekela isikhumba, noma kunjalo: isikrini selanga ! Lokhu kumele kusetshenziswe nsuku zonke ukuvimbela umonakalo njengokuguga kwasekuqaleni kanye nokuguqulwa kwegazi, nokusekela umkhiqizo wakho we-cosmesceutical.
Uma ukhetha umkhiqizo we-cosmesceutical kuqala ubheke izithako ezinesayensi esilandelayo. Kuzama ukugxuma kwi-bandwagon ngesithako se-trendy yakamuva, kodwa uma kungenayo ubufakazi bokusekela izimangalo ongase uzikhohlise imali phansi.
Uma udinga usizo ekukhetheni umkhiqizo omuhle wezitho zomzimba, inkambo yakho engcono kakhulu yokuzibuza i-esthetician noma, ngokuyisisekelo, i-dermatologist yakho ukuthi yini ayincomayo.
> Imithombo:
> Barros BS, Zaenglein AL. "Ukusetshenziswa kwama-Cosmeceuticals ku-Acne: Usizo noma i-Hoax?" Journal American of Dermatology Clinic . 2017 Mashi; 18 (2): 159-163.
> Lee CM. Iminyaka Engamashumi amahlanu Yezokucwaninga Nokuthuthukiswa Kwama-Cosmeceuticals: Ukubukeza Okuqhubekayo. " I-Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. I-2016 Dec; 15 (4): 527-539.
> Milam EC, Rieder EA. "Indlela Yokuthola Izithandani." Journal of Izidakamizwa in Dermatology. 2016 Apr; 15 (4): 452-6.
> Pilkington SJ, uBelden S, uMiller RA. "I-Teary Tear Trough: Ukubukezwa Kwama-Cosmeceuticals e-Skin Purebital Rejuvenation." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2015 Sep; 8 (9): 39-47.
> Ukuphathwa Kwezokudla Nezidakamizwa zase-US. "I-Cosmetics Guidance & Regulation." Ikhasi laseKhaya LokuLawula Ukudla Nezidakamizwa . UMnyango WezeMpilo waseMelika kanye Nezinsizakalo Zabantu, ngoDisemba 21, 2016. Iwebhu.